TZ42-4 Afghanistan: Vintage Embroidered Zazi Doily

Description

This is a vintage embroidery from Afghanistan. Beads are missing from the four corners which makes me think that it was once embedded into a larger garment.

Dimensions:

10.25″ x 9.5″
Metric: 26 cm x 24

Estimated age: 50 years+

Specifics on this piece: Tiny embroidered stitching divide the design into four defined corners set against a green silk background. Metallic braiding gives some sparkle to the piece. Stitching is impressive! Very tiny chain stitches form the designs. Edges are decorated with twisted threads that end in glass seed beads. Square textiles like this one fit perfectly on the low square tables used in the area and are often used as a doily when serving tea.

Afghanistan has been at the heart of the crossroads for the Silk Road for centuries. Nomads and generations of ethnic groups have thrived on trade and beautiful handicraft skills. Textiles, embroidery and carpet weaving continue to represent a plethora of skills that extend on into metal work, wood work, and ceramics. Designs reflect both the beauty of nature and life of spirit in choice of colors and fluidity of the design.

“Traditional Textiles of Central Asia” by Janet Harvey, a wonderful illustrated book on textiles from Afghanistan and the region has a similar embroidery pictured. Harvey describes it:

“Embroidered squares can be made up into a dress bodice or be used with the four corners folded to the centre as a small envelope-bag. Pashtun nomad tribeswomen of Hazarajat have formed these striking symmetrical unit-designs in very closely worked ladder-stitch finished with woven metal-thread braid and blue beads.”

Hazarajat or Hazaristan both simply mean the “land of mountain ridges” – which it exactly what it is: the most jagged, mountainous ridge land of the Hindukush mountains.  The Kuchi nomads shared the same land as the Hazara and sometimes co-existed peacefully with them while at other times were forced to herd their animals elsewhere.  They also use similar stitches in their embroidery and many people lump them all into one group or another.  Abdul has always called these doilies “Zazi embroideries”.

The Hazara trace their origins to an invasion by Kenghis Khan in the 13th Century. They were fiercely independent until the early 1900’s when roads were built through their territories which led to exposure to industrialization and by the 1930’s many Hazara were migrating to the cities, employed in the most menial work conditions. They have had bloody confrontations with the Taliban.   (Wikipedia)

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Afghan Tribal Arts is owned by Abdul Wardak who has imported from Afghanistan and the region since the late 1980’s. Abdul has a passion for all things handmade, but beads and rugs form the core part of his business. The gallery and showroom is located at 626 Broadway in downtown Paducah, Kentucky (USA).

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Abdul Wardak of Afghan Tribal Arts